Our first morning in Zurich was filled with glorious sunshine and puddles of melted snow. A perfect day for walking Zurich. The Mister enjoyed his hotel breakfast (very good) for the astronomical sum of 30CHF while those of us not on business accounts wandered into town for a more reasonable breakfast at one of Zurich’s department stores. Little known fact…department stores in Zurich have lovely little cafes and restaurants that serve good food for a (more) reasonable cost.
I topped up on a coffee and an egg-ish tart in Globus and decided to buy a few snacks from the downstairs food hall before venturing out for the day.
The food hall had a great selection of ready-made food and a huge assortment of candy and pastries. As tempting as everything looked, I didn’t buy anything as I’m saving myself for an apple strudel with warm vanilla cream.
Zurich is well-known as an expensive, exclusive place to shop. I started my walk on the Bahnhofstrasse, famous for designer labels and posh boutiques. The section closest to the train station is more high-street than high-end, but the vibe changes as you walk south toward Lake Zurich. Even if you don’t plan on purchasing a Gucci handbag or diamond cufflinks, it’s a fun place to window shop and people-watch. I stopped in the Sprungli store to examine the chocolates and test some of the sample coffees.
I reached the end of Bahnhofstrasse at Zurichsee (Lake Zurich), usually a bustling hub for boaters, swimmers, residents and tourists. Since it was the very end of October, the lake was very quiet with the exception of one lake cruise boat filled with a handful of passengers. I passed on the boat tour (I’ve done this before..a great way to relax and see Zurich from a different perspective) and continued my walk back along the river north to visit the Fraumunster.
The Fraumunster abbey was founded in 853 by Louis the German. It has beautiful frescos in the cloister and 5 beautiful stained glass windows designed by Marc Chagall in the choir of the abbey. Sorry, no photography allowed in the church, but you can click here to see information about the church and windows. After admiring the Fraumunster, I abandoned my tourist map and started wandering the side streets of Zurich.
I fell in love with this little seating area outside the Sibler shop (fabulous for well-designed kitchenware and household goods). Did you notice the red, fuzzy throws on the chairs? The fuzzy-throw-on-chair concept is everywhere in Zurich…cafes, restaurants, anywhere with outdoor seating. Good for keeping you toasty warm while you enjoy your coffee and pastry! I love this idea and plan on using it at home as soon as I have an outdoor space. And some chairs. And some of the fuzzy things.
The Teuscher chocolate shop won the prize for the most beautiful, festive window display (says me).
So many little shops and boutiques …
I followed one of the cobbled streets to a small park at the top of the hill…
Originally the site of a Roman citadel, the Lindenhof is now a public park with spectacular views over the city. It is a great place to take panoramic pictures of the city and soak up the sun on a park bench.
It was well past noon and I still had things to see, so I crossed over the river and walked to see the 12th century, Romanesque Grossmunster.
The Grossmunster, according to legend, was founded by Charlemagne after his horse stopped on the graves of three Christian martyrs. The three martyrs were tortured, beheaded and miraculously carried their own heads up the hill to this spot and commenced burying themselves. A beautiful, 15th century statue of Charlemagne, originally placed in the south tower, now sits in the crypt below the church.
For 5CHF, you can climb to the top of the Grossmunster’s towers and enjoy a spectacular view of Zurich. I don’t know why I even contemplated this since I have a paralyzing fear of heights. I watched little kids, fat old men and grannies pay their money and haul up the stairs. Surely, if they can do it, I can do it. Ha. I was doing quite well until the tiny stone steps turned into steep, ladder-like wooden steps. I stopped at one point to consider 1. Who do you call in Switzerland if you need to be blindfolded and carried down 187 steps? 2. What does a panic attack in a church tower look like from the street? 3. What would I look like climbing backwards down the stairs, whilst sobbing loudly on my hands and knees?
I eventually shamed myself into finishing the climb and was rewarded with spectacular views over the town and lake. I took quite a few pictures, but most were overexposed, blurry or taken through the barrier rails. Sorry! My hands were shaking and I couldn’t see. Haha.
Back on terra firma, I found a tiny grocery store offering hot soup and sandwiches…
which I happily ate in one of the many “hidden” parks and public sitting areas …
The hidden green areas, winding streets, the feeling that something interesting is just around the corner…all contribute to Zurich’s charm.
I found this fabulous bakery on my way to Kunsthaus Zurich and vowed to return to sit in the fuzzy chairs, play with the dog and have a coffee and that elusive apple strudel with vanilla cream.
The Kunsthaus Zurich museum of fine arts holds an impressive permanent collection, as well as an excellent selection of current exhibitions. I was particularly interested in the Gauguin, Giacometti and Great Art and Architecture exhibitions.
After a few leisurely hours at the museum, it was time to think about picking up dinner and getting on the train. Of course, I had to stop at a few design stores on the way to do a little Christmas shopping, Bookbinders on Oberdorfstrasse and Changemaker/Ethik Kusst Asthetik on Markgasse 10 are two fabulous choices.
After a few final photo-stops and a quick pass through the train station coop for a take-away dinner, it was time to leave Zurich and head for a weekend in the Alps.
What I liked:
Getting around Zurich was effortless. While I enjoy doing everything on foot, travel connections within and surrounding Zurich are efficient, clean and frequent. There isn’t really any need for a car.
Food was very good, albeit expensive.
Residents are tolerant and encouraging of any attempt to speak their language. They are also generous enough to switch to English when necessary.
The city itself is beautiful, especially at night.
Good coffee, finally
Chocolate. Lots of chocolate
Good to know:
Switzerland is EXPENSIVE. Consider using Swiss Pass if you are in the country for more than a few days. It allows for unlimited travel on rail, bus and boat system throughout Switzerland as well as 50% discount on mountain trains and cable-cars. It also gives free admissions to over 400 museums and sights. There are a variety of passes available, so check here before you go.
There are a large number of smaller cafes and supermarkets throughout Zurich that carry the supplies for a picnic lunch/dinner. Also try the cafes in the department stores for a quick lunch or coffee. The price differential is significant.
Check out my other Zurich post.
Where to stay:
We stayed in the Zurich Marriott this week. It is a nice hotel located on the river, about a 10 minute walk from the train station. It wins points for location and cleanliness. It loses points for charging 35chf a day for internet (please) and a similar amount for breakfast. It has a big following with corporate clients.
We’ve also stayed at EMA HOUSE when we were traveling with children. We had a very modern, well-designed two bedroom flat with a galley kitchen… wonderful when you want the option of eating in. EMA HOUSE is just up the hill from the Marriott and enjoys the benefits of being close to town, the river and everything Zurich has to offer. This is not a hotel with hotel services…if you need personal attention, daily maid service and chocolates on your pillow, this is not for you. It is, however, a great place to stay.
I have a policy of not recommending/reviewing anything I haven’t done or any place I haven’t stayed :). There are countless of other places to stay in Zurich, and we might try something new the next time we come. I’ll update this page if we find something fabulous!